Simply Pursuing ‘Delivious Sake.’ The Brewer’s Life: Naohiko Noguchi, Master Brewer

Simply Pursuing ‘Delicious Sake.’ The Brewer’s Life: Naohiko Noguchi, Master Brewer

At 92, Naohiko Noguchi is still sweating away in the brewery alongside young brewers, dedicated to making sake that meets the needs of his customers. As a master brewer and a successor of the “Yamahai method,” he has produced countless bottles of “delicious sake” for decades. His sole wish is simple: “To make people happy by creating sake.” Living for over 70 years dedicated to sake brewing, we reflect on Mr. Noguchi’s journey and hear about his future aspirations.

A New Beginning at 82: Brewing at the “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute”

There is a person known as the “God of Sake Brewing.” At 92 years old, he continues to brew sake as an active Toji (master brewer). A Toji is the leader who oversees the work of the brewery team and is responsible for the entire brewing process.

Located in the town of Kanagaso, Komatsu City, Ishikawa Prefecture, stands the brewery where he pours his passion into sake brewing. Overlooking Mt. Kananbo, where high-quality stone called “Kanagosoishi” is quarried, the brewery is named the “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute,” after the master brewer himself.

In November 2017, this brewery became a place of sake brewing, created through the collaboration between Master Brewer Noguchi and the president of Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, Yujiro Asano.

Looking back nine years, when Mr. Noguchi was 82, it was clear to those around him that he was not his usual energetic self. This was due to his retirement that spring from the position of Toji, a role he had devoted over 50 years of his life to. At 16, following in the footsteps of his grandfather and father, Mr. Noguchi entered the world of sake brewing. He had spent nearly his entire life dedicated to making “delicious sake.” To step away from this world was, in his words, akin to “losing himself.” “I was only alive because of my work. When sake brewing was no longer there, the thought of deteriorating made me suddenly feel afraid,” Mr. Noguchi reflected on that time.

It was during this period that Mr. Noguchi and Mr. Asano met at a gathering. Naturally, there were voices expressing concern over Noguchi’s condition. And with the influence of alcohol, someone casually suggested, “Why not have Mr. Asano become the brewery owner and build a sake brewery where Mr. Noguchi can once again focus on brewing?” Both of them initially dismissed it as a joke, but before long, they were deep in conversation. Not long after, the search for a location for the brewery began, marking the start of their serious collaboration. Even now, they laugh together saying, “I only did it because President Asano asked me,” and “Because Noguchi-san asked me.”

Thus, this large project, which began with their meeting, took shape. From the beginning, it was decided that the brewery would be opened in Komatsu City, Mr. Asano’s hometown, a region rich in nature. The final deciding factor was the environment: abundant water and clean air.

The town of Kanagaso, where the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute stands, is a place where nature and people coexist harmoniously. The brewery is blessed with high-quality groundwater from the sacred Mt. Haku, making it an ideal location for sake brewing. Additionally, the clean air in the mountainous area is essential for the brewing process, which relies on microorganisms such as koji mold and yeast. And rice. About half of the sake rice used to produce sake at the sake institute is the locally grown “Gohyaku Mangoku,” a variety native to the Hokuriku region, and is cultivated here in Komatsu City. It can be said that there was no other place more fitting for Mr. Noguchi to once again devote himself to sake brewing. Thus, the “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute” was born.

Passing on Everything He Has to the Young Brewers

What kind of career has Master Brewer Noguchi had?

Starting as a brewer at the age of 16, Mr. Noguchi spent several years learning the “Tokai-style” of sake brewing in Mie and Shizuoka Prefectures. At 28, he returned to his hometown in Ishikawa Prefecture and became the master brewer at Kikuhime, L.P., taking on this responsibility at an unusually young age. He continued in this role until he was 65. Mr. Noguchi then worked as a master brewer at several other breweries, including Kano Shuzo, and continued brewing sake until he was 82. Throughout his career, he dedicated himself to brewing while also mentoring many young brewers, guiding them to become master brewers themselves.

“Mr. Noguchi is great at teaching,” people often say to which Mr. Noguchi always replies, “No, what’s important is the attitude of the person learning. Whether they are willing to face sake brewing with determination and passion is the most important thing.” The talented brewers he mentored are now active across the country, and some have even tested their skills overseas.

Mr. Noguchi, who believes that nurturing the next generation and passing down techniques and senses is crucial for continuing to make great sake, seemed to have felt the positive impact of this approach. In fact, after retiring as a master brewer at 82, he spoke at lectures about focusing on the development of younger brewers.

A few years later, together with Mr. Asano, Mr. Noguchi built a sake brewery and deliberately named it the “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute.” The reason behind this name is clear: to pass on the knowledge and experience he has accumulated to the young brewers, and to research together in pursuit of creating great sake. “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute” is a place that continuously seeks to explore and create better sake without stopping.

“I want to create a brewery that passes everything I know on to the next generation.” The research institute reflects Mr. Noguchi’s mission to train future brewers, making it a place where his life’s journey is passed on like a baton to young brewers for the future.

An interesting point is that the brewers trained at the sake institute are not required to have experience in sake brewing. “Experience isn’t necessary. What matters is whether they can dream of making great sake,” says Mr. Noguchi. He personally speaks with each young person who wants to join the brewery, ensuring that they are passionate about pursuing their dreams. Having spent his life chasing the dream of making great sake, it’s only natural that he expects the same determination from the young brewers he mentors.

During the brewing season, he shares every moment with the young brewers, living and eating together. Through these interactions and conversations, their mutual enthusiasm converges, and naturally, great sake is brewed.

The Role of the Craftsman, as Realized Through Feedback from Customers

Master Brewer Noguchi, often referred to as the “God of Sake Brewing” and selected as a “Modern Master Craftsman,” did not have an easy start to his brewing career.

After learning the fruity and light flavor profile of sake brewing in the “Tokai style” as an apprentice brewer, Mr. Noguchi’s talent was recognized, and at the age of 28, he was appointed as the master brewer at Kikuhime in his hometown of Ishikawa. His young age was unprecedented in the world of sake brewing. Naturally, he put great effort into his first brewing in his hometown. The sake he produced was, of course, in the “Tokai style,” and the brewery owner highly praised its quality.

However, when the sake was released, it received harsh criticism that was unexpected. “How can anyone drink such thin sake?” and rumors spread that “the new master brewer at Kikuhime had diluted the sake with water and was chasing profits.”

The reason for this backlash was rooted in the local customs. At that time, the logistics system was underdeveloped, and the people who drank sake typically chose what they could buy locally. Kikuhime’s brewery was in Hakusan City, an area with a thriving timber industry. Many people worked in labor-intensive jobs all day long, and what they had grown accustomed to drinking was a rich, robust sake with a strong rice flavor. The sake Mr. Noguchi created, however, was not what they were looking for.

“A craftsman’s job is not to show off his skills. It’s to make what the customer wants. That is the role,” 

From then on, he focused on making sake that would please his customers. This experience ultimately led him to become a key figure in the revival of the “Yamahai” brewing method.

“Yamahai” and “Sokujō” are both methods of sake brewing, but the significant difference is that “Yamahai” takes more time and effort and carries a higher risk than “Sokujō.”

Sake is created through the process of fermentation, where yeast, which promotes alcohol fermentation, and enzymes produced by koji mold work together. To prevent the growth of harmful bacteria that could spoil the sake, a controlled environment of cool temperatures and lactic acid fermentation is necessary. After this lactic acid fermentation, alcohol fermentation begins, and the sake is brewed.

In the “Yamahai” method, lactic acid fermentation is allowed to take place slowly over two weeks, naturally absorbing lactic acid bacteria from the air. This method, developed during the Meiji era, is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it creates a rich, full-bodied flavor and produces a strong, powerful sake. However, during this process, there is also the risk of “spoilage,” where the sake can go bad due to the growth of harmful bacteria. The method developed was ” Sokujō.” By artificially adding lactic acid bacteria, it eliminates the risk of “spoilage” and improves economic efficiency. This technique has since become the mainstream in sake production.

However, Mr. Noguchi took the harsh feedback on his first sake to heart as “the voice of the customer” and, seeking a rich and full-bodied flavor, made the bold decision to focus on the “Yamahai” method. For the next three years, while still the master brewer at Kikuhime, he traveled to Kyoto and directly learned the techniques of the Tanba master brewers. Today, about half of the sake brands produced at the “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute” are made using the “Yamahai” method. Mr. Noguchi regards the Tanba master brewer who helped lay the foundation for his sake-making as his mentor, and visits Tanba to pay respect at his grave.

The Goal for the Future, as Envisioned by the God of Sake Brewing

In fact, Master Brewer Noguchi is said to be unable to drink alcohol. That is why he values customer feedback above all else. His motivation is simple: “To make delicious sake and bring joy to those who drink it.”

Even at 92, his mind is completely occupied with sake brewing. He is truly a person who lives for the craft of brewing.

Now, he has a new goal: to create sake that will be loved by people around the world. Although sake from the “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute” is already enjoyed in 28 countries, Mr. Noguchi hopes to further promote the enjoyment of sake as a food-pairing beverage. He believes that the umami, sweetness, and acidity of sake can complement any cuisine from around the world, and he is dedicated to spreading this message.

Indeed, many visitors from around the world come to the “Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute” in search of “delicious sake.” They tour the glass-walled brewery and taste sake while enjoying the view of the rice fields and cedar forests of Kanagasomachi from the tasting room, “Touan.” Almost all of these visitors come to learn from the man known as the “God of Sake Brewing.”

“It makes me happy when who have come from foreign countries drink the sake I made and enjoy it,” says Mr.Noguchi.

Many visitors look forward to meeting him in person, eager to speak with the master brewer himself.

“He’s a very calm, ordinary grandfather,” says everyone who knows him.

 But when autumn arrives, he seems to rejuvenate, appearing ten or twenty years younger.

“To make delicious sake.” That desire has not changed since he was 16. In fact, after all these years, it may be stronger than ever. His love for sake and the love sake has for him will continue for many years to come.

The “God of Sake Brewing” is still, today, talking, laughing, and working hard alongside his young brewers.

If you would like to visit the Naohiko Noguchi Institute and get further into the world of sake, please see the following information